Devaraja Market

A visual and sensory revelry   

Devaraja Market Squar

 Charm and charisma intertwined in chaos is what the heritage market of Mysore – Devaraja Market is. It’s no less wondrous than Alice’s adventure in Wonderland and falling through the rabbit hole once you step inside the fascinating Devaraja Market. In essence, it could be a kaleidoscopic view of the daily life of Mysoreans. The market dates back to 1900, an excellent example of clamouring ‘bazaars’ of India.  Although it has seen its glorious days, the crumbling facade still exudes the aura of something fantastic and amazing and nostalgic.

It is a closed market with a main entrance in the north, (although it has several smaller entrances) lined with all kinds of shops, selling vegetables, fruit, flowers, dry groceries, bangles and even garden and puja needs. Business at the market begins before sunrise as the trucks and carts arrive with their diverse goods. The moment you step inside the market, you are drawn towards the colourful and varied assortment of fruits displayed with geometric precision and aesthetics. Without even jostling for space, the redolent and fragrant flowers gently pull you towards the heaps of jasmine, tuberoses, chrysanthemums, lotus, gerbera, marigold, champak, etc. The flower-sellers deftly tie loose flowers to create both simple and elaborate garlands or ‘flower jewellery’ to adorn  the hair of women, or as wrist band. The fragrant flower lanes take us further towards more intoxicating aromas of natural oils, ‘ittar’, incense sticks and scented coloured powders.

 

One cannot shut off noise and din and sensory ‘assault’ in Indian markers, and Devaraja market is no exception. However, there are a few quiet lanes in it where there is general peace and lull (lanes selling bananas, dry grocery,  jaggery, bangles and coloured powders) while other lanes compensate the quiet of those lanes with their own boisterous manifestation of attracting customers and visitors (flowers, fruits, vegetables, coconut, betel leaves, etc.).

If the eclectic array of colours and forms be said as a visual gift for the eyes then the shifting noise in the lanes can be perceived as a symphony for the ears, - musical and cacophonous undulation.

 

  A visit to Devaraja Market is a promise for a mind-boggling experience in exuberance, order in chaos, less is more. As is said in one Muslim quote “A lot of different flowers make a bouquet” and thus Devaraja Market proves that its beauty and charm lie  its eclecticism and singularity.

 

 

 

 

 

A reality check of this imposing architectural and socio-economic building, sadly, is in a crumbling state. A portion of the market was collapsed in 2016 due to its dilapidated condition. Citing safety of the shop-keepers, Karnataka High Court had ordered demolition of Devaraja

Market. However, the sentiment and desire of most of the Mysoreans urge High court to consider restoration of this heritage building rather than demolition. So, now the debate is whether it should be demolished, reconstructed or restored. Hopefully the state government will take a decision keeping in mind the sentiments of people as well as the pride and legacy of Mysore’s heritage buildings.